| Summary | None |
| Owner | Woody Hoburg |
| Creation Date | 2008-07-07 14:09:30 UTC-0400 |
| Description | Sister Superior
June 12, 2008 Jah Man 5.10c Woody Hoburg, Polly Anikeeva The best way to get an alpine start is to trick yourself into it. We set the alarm for 6am (sounds reasonable). Come 6am, we felt WAY too tired, so we decided to sleep until 7am. Come 7am, the alarm goes off again, and we still feel like crap. We went to bed early! What's going on? And, it's still really dark outside. Strange. Oh well, we gets our butts out of the tent. Man, it's dark! If it were 7am in Boston, it would be light outside by now! Oh wait, it IS 7am in Boston. And it's 5am here. I guess we got our alpine start. The route was awesome. 2nd pitch 5.8 squeeze chimney that actually protected surprisingly well. After going DEEP into the chimney and scraping every body part up it, it felt great to emerge into the daylight. Camelback had to go between the legs for this one. Pitch three climbed a good hard thin hands crack. Hung at the crux, so this one doesn't count for me. Then things got creative on pitch 4 -- 100 feet of solid 1 inch hands. The guidebook called for 5 #3 friends for this pitch. Friend sizes must not be in inches - I had 3" C4's and some old 3.5" rigid friends. There I was with a huge rack of oversized friends; nothing fit. I leapfrogged my 2 #1 pieces and used other sizes and nuts where possible. This became direct aid toward the top of the pitch. Way cool route! |