Recombeast climb

SummaryClimbing the Beast Flake variation to Recompense on Cathedral Ledge, NH
OwnerMITOC Gallery Administrator
Creation Date2006-04-18 21:39:50 UTC-0400
DescriptionWoody Hoburg


Darren Verploegen


Cathedral Ledge, NH


04.17.2006

Darren and I left Boston at 4:30 AM and headed for the Whitney Gilman ridge on Cannon. Weather looked good, and we were psyched. Driving into Franconia Notch was a change from blue sunny skies to low-lying clouds filling the valley. Climbing the ridge was going to put us in a white-out at best. We figured we had a chance at the sun burning the clouds off, and hiked up the scree slopes to the base of the Whitney-Gilman Ridge,

We got a good view of the black dike, which we knew Dan and Streve had planned to climb two days earlier. It was ugly. Not much ice in there.

As we got rope out and contemplated what rappeling off in a storm would be like, it started to snow. We started up a few feet and all the handholds were getting covered in white stuff. We bailed.

And so it was that we found ourselves at Cathedral on a perfectly good day. We decided to do something a bit harded than usual, and settled on Recompense (5.9), via the Beast Flake variation.

This climb was incredible. The Beast Flake pitch was by far the best pitch I've ever climbed. Pitch one was easy (5.5) so Darren got to try out his leading skills. The fifth pitch was hard, and I was whupped. I fell twice and ended up yanking on a cam. So it was an A0 for me; however Darren followed the fifth pitch clean. I'm mad at myself for needing the cam and totally ready to go back and do the climb again, hopefully finishing the last pitch strong!

Enjoy the pics...