| Summary | |
| Owner | MITOC Gallery Administrator |
| Creation Date | 2007-06-12 23:52:18 UTC-0400 |
| Description | Polly Anikeeva Woody Hoburg Ancient Art, Fischer Towers, Moab, UT Stolen Chimney, 5.10- Our first climb of the trip, and by far the funkiest formation I've ever seen. The guidebook rates pitch 1 at 5.11a, but erosion has made the small cobblestones stick out way further; I put this pitch now at 5.9 -- yay erosion :) After several pitches some 5.10- is very well protected by drilled angles; then a narrow catwalk provides walking access to the base of the summit spire. Walking access for Polly, that is. I crawled out across the 2 foot wide sidewalk like a toddler. The summit anchor is just a bunch of slings wrapped around the spire -- cool! . We climbed 5 pitches here on Polly's rope, and did 3 double rope raps without incident. See the Castleton report for more details :) Polly's comments: It felt pretty good to walk again after being in the car for 2.5 solid days. I saw a picture of Ancient Art in a guide book, and I thought it's cool, but could be intimidating. But once we arrived in Moab and saw the Fishers towers, I just wanted to start climbing anything. Woody led the whole thing and I cleaned pro after him, climbing felt surprizingly easy (go erosion). The feeling on the summit is really trippy - kinda 3D exposure, since the top is about a foot in diameter, sure makes your head spin. More from Woody: Take a look at IMG_0815. Polly has just come across a narrow catwalk (the sidewalk) with maybe 350' vertical exposure on both sides. Now, with all that exposure, she has to mantle her way onto something way bigger than her. It's one of the few times I've felt bad for a climber "being too short". Once her feet left the ground, Polly bear-hugged the rock, legs kicking, somewhat to my amusement for some time, before she managed to squirm her way on top. And of course, she had to repeat the maneuver on her way down. And finally, I've seen pics of people standing one-footed on the summit. Those people are either braver, stupider, or way more coordinated than me. What a crazy summit! |